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DEATH OF A RIVER

Driving from Gilgit to Kaghan, the glittery snow capped view on the Karakoram Highway (KKH) unexpectedly changes to a fairly ruined — yet similarly stunning — scene, as one crosses the Indus at Raikot Bridge. A sharp left turn and a hair-raising 45-minute jeep ride to Tattu town, trailed by a 2-hour journey, placed you in shaft position for a night remain at the 13,000-feet-high Fairy Meadows.

The glades offer an astonishing perspective on the ‘Executioner Mountain’, Nanga Parbat, the world’s ninth most elevated top at 26,660 feet. On KKH, 50 kilometers ahead falsehoods Chilas — the doorway to the Kaghan Valley. What’s more, after another 30 steep and twisty miles, the bewildered driver is on top of Babusar — a mountain pass at 13,700 feet in the north of the valley.

The mountain scopes of Kaghan are branches of the incomparable Himalayas, entering from the east through Kashmir. The ones flanking the east bank of Kunhar River are home to the 17,200-feet-high Malika Parbat, and the 13,378-feet-high Musa ka Musalla in the west.

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